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Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan
Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan
History Destinations

The Three-Legged Crow—Unforgettable Guardian of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

Myths, pilgrimage routes, and soccer

Three-legged crow statue at the Nachi Grand Shrine, Wakayama, Japan.
Three-legged crow statue at the Nachi Grand Shrine, Wakayama, Japan. (©Diane Tincher)

Those who have had the pleasure of hiking along the ancient pilgrimage paths of the Kumano Kodo on the Kii Peninsula of Wakayama Prefecture, Japan, have probably seen an image of the three-legged crow, Yatagarasu. These sacred crows are said to be messengers of the gods, and due to their intelligence and keen eyesight, they are also revered as guides.

Three-legged crow flags flutter over Hongu Shrine, Wakayama.
Hongu Grand Shrine, Wakayama Prefecture

The Yatagarasu has a long history.

Three-legged crow appears in Han Dynasty mural
HAN DYNASTY MURAL PAINTING OF THREE-LEGGED BIRD, HENAN, CHINA. (PUBLIC DOMAIN)

Ancient Chinese myths tell of a scarlet, three-legged bird that lived in the sun. Carvings of these birds have been found on tombs in China from the 3rd century, BC. In Japan, images of Yatagarasu were carved on the walls of the ancient Kitora Tomb in Nara.

Three-legged crow appears on the Tamamushi Shrine from the Nara Period.
Tamamushi no Zushi, aka Tamamushi Shrine. (Public domain)

The three-legged crow even appears on the 7th century Tamamushi no Zushi, a small cabinet for holding Buddhist texts and objects that was decorated with over 2,500 jewel beetle wings, stored at Hōryuji Temple in Nara, Japan.

Guide to Emperor Jimmu

According to the Kojiki and the Nihon Shoki, ancient books that tell of Japan’s mythical origins, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu’s grandson descended to the earth on Mount Takachiho in southern Kyushu. One of his descendants became the first emperor of Japan, Emperor Jimmu.

Mount Takachiho.
Mount Takachiho looms behind the volcano, Shinmoedake, Miyazaki Prefecture.
Peak of Mount Takachiho
The spear of Amaterasu’s grandson, Ninigi, marking the spot where he descended to the earth. The summit of Mount Takachiho, Miyazaki Prefecture.

According to legend, in 660 BC Jimmu sailed north from Kyushu hoping to conquer the Nara region of Japan, then known as Yamato. He reached the western shore near present-day Osaka, headed inland — and was soundly defeated.

After some thought, he realized that his defeat must have been the result of traveling against the movement of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. For his next incursion, he sailed down the coast to Kumano and made his next approach from the southeast, crossing the rugged mountains of the Kii Peninsula to reach Yamato.

Three-legged crow is the guardian of the Kumano Kodo
Along the Kumano Kodo, in the mountains of the Kii Peninsula, Wakayama Prefecture.

The Kii mountains are steep, wet, and heavily forested. Jimmu and his army lost their way amid the towering trees.

Salvation came when Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, sent a heavenly messenger in the form of a yatagarasu, a three-legged crow. This divine creature guided them safely through the treacherous terrain. Jimmu reached Yamato, succeeded in uniting Japan, set up the Yamato court — and became the forefather of all the Japanese emperors.

The Japanese nation’s roots can be traced to the bewildering mountains of Kumano.

Three-legged crow carved in a boulder.
Three-legged crow at Oyunohara, Hongu, Wakayama Prefecture. (©Diane Tincher)

Why 3 legs?

The three legs have been said to represent:

天 The gods

地 Nature

人 Humanity

all of which were born from the sun and thus all are brothers.

Or,

知 Wisdom

仁 Benevolence

勇 Valor

Three-legged crow statue at Nachi Shrine, Wakayama
Yatagarasu at the Nachi Grand Shrine, in Kakunosuke’s hometown of Nachi-Katsuura, Wakayama Prefecture.

What does the three-legged crow have to do with soccer?

The founding father of soccer in Japan, Nakamura Kakunosuke (1878–1906), was from Nachi-Katsuura, a town on the western coast of the Kii Peninsula. In 1903, after translating the English soccer primer, Association Football, he established the first soccer team in Japan.

Perhaps in the hopes that the Yatagarasu of Kakunosuke’s hometown area would guide their teams to victory, the Yatagarasu was adopted as the emblem of the Japan Football Association.

Three-legged crow is the symbol of the  Japan Soccer Association
Three-legged crow as symbol of the Japan football association

For the story of the most popular guardian along the old roads of Japan, read about Jizō here.

All photos ©Diane Neill Tincher, unless otherwise noted.


If you have questions about Japan or suggestions for articles, please add them in the comments. For more photos and information on Japan, follow me on instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/more_than_tokyo/

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