Christianity – More Than Tokyo https://www.morethantokyo.com Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan Thu, 20 Nov 2025 23:18:57 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://www.morethantokyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/cropped-favicon-1-32x32.png Christianity – More Than Tokyo https://www.morethantokyo.com 32 32 Japan’s Hidden Christians https://www.morethantokyo.com/hidden-christians/ https://www.morethantokyo.com/hidden-christians/#respond Tue, 11 Nov 2025 06:56:02 +0000 https://www.morethantokyo.com/?p=9052 More Than Tokyo

More Than Tokyo - Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan

After surviving centuries of persecution, the Hidden Christians are quietly disappearing Traveling around Japan, I’ve come upon some unusual statues, testaments to the years Christianity was deemed a crime punishable by death. From the Maria Jizo of Narai in Nagano, to the Maria Kannon’s of Nagasaki, Christians made do with what they could contrive to …

The post Japan’s Hidden Christians first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

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More Than Tokyo

More Than Tokyo - Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan

No longer Hidden Christians. Traditional altar with statues of Mother Mary.
Christian icons amid Shinto New Year’s Offerings, seen at an inn in Amakusa, Kumamoto. (©Diane Tincher)

Traveling around Japan, I’ve come upon some unusual statues, testaments to the years Christianity was deemed a crime punishable by death. From the Maria Jizo of Narai in Nagano, to the Maria Kannon’s of Nagasaki, Christians made do with what they could contrive to keep their faith fresh.

A Little History of Christianity in Japan

Christianity reached Japan in 1549, when the Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier stepped ashore on southern Kyushu. Getting permission from the local daimyo, feudal lord, he began to preach. The new religion spread rapidly through Kyushu, accelerated by the conversion of several daimyo, most notably Omura Sumitada of the Omura domain (in present-day Nagasaki), Otomo Sōrin of Bungo (present-day Oita), and Arima Harunobu of the Shimabara domain (also in Nagasaki). Their embrace of Christianity gave the religion a measure of protection and prestige, but their zealousness and eagerness to please the missionaries resulted in the destruction of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in their domains, as well as the forced conversion of their subjects. 

Nevertheless, sincere Christian communities sprang up throughout Kyushu, centered in Nagasaki. Under Jesuit influence, the port developed into both a haven for believers and a thriving hub of Portuguese trade.

The Jesuits were followed by Spanish Franciscans, who also proved successful.. By the late 1500s, an estimated 300,000 Japanese had converted to Christianity, out of a nationwide population of roughly 15-22 million. In 2024, by contrast, about 1.2 million Japanese reported being Christian, less than 1% of a population of 123.8 million.

The climate of tolerance did not last. Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s 1587 Bateren Edict expelled missionaries, and a decade later, the crucifixion of 26 Christians in Nagasaki set a grim precedent. The Tokugawa shogunate outright banned Christianity in 1614. By the 1620s, missionaries had been expelled, and believers faced torture, execution, or forced apostasy.

The 1637–1638 Shimabara Rebellion of mostly Christian peasants, desperate from heavy taxation and famine, culminated in the expulsion of all the Portuguese and Spanish, as well as the 1641 confinement of the Dutch to Dejima, severing any possible Christian ties to the outside world. Christianity became punishable by death, with believers either killed or driven underground. Many became Kakure Kirishitan, Hidden Christians.

Amakusa Shiro pointing to the heavens. Statue in Amakusa, Japan.
Amakusa Shiro, the 17-year-old Christian who led the Shimabara Rebellion. (©Diane Tincher)

Life in Hiding (1640s–1850s)

The Hidden Christians developed ingenious ways to preserve their religion, adapting symbols and rituals to blend into Buddhist practice. Statues of the Virgin Mary were disguised as Kannon, the Buddhist bodhisattva of mercy, and crosses and rosaries were hidden inside Buddhist icons.

Central to the continuation of their faith were prayers called orasho, in a mix of Latin and 16th-century Portuguese and Japanese, chanted in rhythms resembling Buddhist liturgy. Passed down from generation to generation, reciting the orasho eventually became more of a ritual in itself rather than fully understood words.

Remote islands such as Goto and Ikitsuki became Christian refuges. There, believers organized into kumi, groups of ten to twenty families that doubled as fishing cooperatives and covert congregations. Under the guise of maritime customs, they disguised baptisms as blessings for new boats and orasho as chants for good fortune at sea. Crosses were hidden in nets and gear, while stones arranged into a cross on ancestors’ graves offered a secret moment of prayer before being scattered.

With few priests, lay leaders took on spiritual roles. The mizukata performed baptisms, and the chokata kept the calendar of holy days, ensuring the community continued its liturgical traditions. The most important was Otaiya, a Christmas mass held on December 23. The bread and wine of the Eucharist were replaced with rice, dried fish, and sake. The officiant placed a bit of the sanctified fish and rice on his upturned palms before eating, reflecting the Catholic sacrament.

Yet even with such careful adaptations and secrecy, persecution never ceased. Under the Tokugawa-mandated terauke seido system, every household was required to register with a Buddhist temple, and annual fumi-e tests forced suspected Christians to trample images of Christ or the Virgin Mary. Refusal meant torture and execution.

Still, hidden enclaves endured. By the 1790s, the rugged coastline of Sotome and the isolated Goto Islands are said to have sheltered as many as 3,000 Hidden Christians, who lived as farmers and fishermen while gathering in caves or homes to pray.

White simple Catholic church against a blue sky with pink clouds.
Oura Church in Nagasaki, Built in 1864. (Photo by Kanenori via Pixabay.)

Rediscovery in the Meiji Era (1868-1912)

In 1863, French priest Bernard Petitjean of the Paris Foreign Missions Society arrived in Nagasaki and oversaw the construction of Oura Cathedral, which was completed the following year for foreign residents.

On March 17, 1865, Petitjean was astonished when 15 timid visitors from nearby Urakami quietly entered his church. They asked to see the statue of the Virgin Mary and to be assured of his ties to the Pope, explaining that they had preserved the sacraments and liturgy in secret for 250 years. Petitjean’s report to Rome stunned the Christian world, and Pope Pius IX hailed the moment as the “Miracle of the Orient.”

This “Discovery of the Hidden Christians” encouraged secret believers in Nagasaki, Sotome, and the Goto Islands to reveal themselves, though some paid a heavy price. On Hisaka Island, newly emboldened Christians openly declared their faith, only to face arrest in what became known as the Goto Kuzure, the Goto Collapse. About 200 Christians were imprisoned in a 20-square-meter cell (215 square feet), where 43 of the weakest, mostly children and the elderly, perished. When Father Petitjean learned of their confinement, he publicized their plight, which led to international calls for Japan to end the persecution.

Headless statue of Maria Jizo.
Maria Jizo, statue that Hidden Christians used in lieu of the Madonna, recovered from where it had been broken and discarded in the forest. Her head has not been found. Narai, Nagano. (©Diane Tincher)

Legacy of Resilience

True freedom for Christians came in 1873, when the Meiji government, under foreign pressure, lifted the ban on Christianity. Roughly 30,000 Hidden Christians emerged, many rejoining the Catholic Church. Others, particularly in the Goto Islands and on Ikitsuki, chose to continue the syncretic traditions of their ancestors. These communities hold the few Hidden Christians who survive today.

Through their generations, the prayers and rituals of the Hidden Christians evolved into customs unlike any other Christians in the world. No longer Japanese, Portuguese, or Latin, their prayers have been passed down written in the phonetic syllabary of katakana, their meaning all but lost. Even so, the faith carried on through the heartfelt sincerity of the believers.

The Hidden Christians’ survival across two and a half centuries of persecution, from Nagasaki’s hillsides to Goto’s remote caves, is nothing short of extraordinary. Yet in recent decades, as younger generations leave rural villages for the cities, few remain to carry on the traditions. The faith that once survived in secrecy under harsh persecution is now quietly disappearing.


Those Hidden Christians who rejoined the Catholics went on to build churches, such as Sakitsu Church in Amakusa in 1888, and Egami Church in Goto in 1918. In 2018, these and other related locations were recognized collectively as UNESCO World Heritage: Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region.

The post Japan’s Hidden Christians first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

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Hosokawa Gracia—The Noblewoman Who Inspired Shogun’s ‘Maria’ https://www.morethantokyo.com/hosokawa-gracia/ https://www.morethantokyo.com/hosokawa-gracia/#respond Fri, 22 Nov 2024 10:48:47 +0000 https://www.morethantokyo.com/?p=8341 More Than Tokyo

More Than Tokyo - Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan

“The beauty of flowers is to know when to fall” Many are familiar with James Clavell’s novel, Shogun. This fantastic work of historical fiction is based on the story of William Adams, an English pilot whose crippled Dutch vessel washed ashore in Kyushu in 1600. Like the novel’s hero, Anjin-san, Adams was made a hatamoto …

The post Hosokawa Gracia—The Noblewoman Who Inspired Shogun’s ‘Maria’ first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

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More Than Tokyo

More Than Tokyo - Exploring the Wonders of Rural Japan

Hosokawa Gracia seated beside her husband, Tadaoki.
Hosokawa Gracia seated beside her husband, Tadaoki. (Photo by 葵花音, used with permission.)

Many are familiar with James Clavell’s novel, Shogun. This fantastic work of historical fiction is based on the story of William Adams, an English pilot whose crippled Dutch vessel washed ashore in Kyushu in 1600. Like the novel’s hero, Anjin-san, Adams was made a hatamoto by Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan’s future shogun, the fictional Toranaga Yoshii. Many other characters are based on historical people: Ishido on Ishida Mitsunari, Lady Ochiba on Yodo-dono, and even the tea house madam who requested the setting aside of land for Edo’s pleasure quarters.

But of all Shogun’s characters, none evoke more sympathy than Mariko-sama, the tragic Lady Maria. She, too, has her roots in history, modeled after a Christian samurai named Hosokawa Gracia.

Background

Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries in Japan, ambitious warlords vied for power amidst constant conflict. The Ashikaga shogunate, based in the Muromachi district of Kyoto, was powerless to stop the chaos. In 1543, Portuguese sailors landed on a southern island and introduced firearms to the country. The powerful warlord, Oda Nobunaga, used these formidable weapons in his quest to unify the nation. Known as Japan’s first great unifier, Nobunaga was supported by three generals: Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu, and Akechi Mitsuhide. By 1580, Nobunaga stood on the verge of realizing his ambition to unite the fractured land.

Hosokawa Gracia

Hosokawa Gracia, born Akechi Tama in 1563, was the daughter of Akechi Mitsuhide, a samurai who rose to become one of Oda Nobunaga’s trusted generals. When Tama was 16, Nobunaga arranged her marriage to Hosokawa Tadaoki, the 16-year-old son of Fujitaka, a prominent retainer of the last Ashikaga shogun. Though young, Tadaoki was already a respected warrior.

The young couple settled at Tango Hachimanyama Castle in what is now northern Kyoto Prefecture. When Tadaoki was awarded the wealthy province of Tango, they moved to Miyazu Castle. There, Tama and Tadaoki had two children and enjoyed a quiet domestic life.

Akechi Mitsuhide, the Traitor

In 1582, Tama’s father, Akechi Mitsuhide, defied an order from his lord, Oda Nobunaga, who had instructed him to join Toyotomi Hideyoshi in southwestern Honshu to subjugate the Mōri clan. Instead, Mitsuhide turned his troops toward Kyoto, where Nobunaga was staying.

Before dawn on June 21, 1582, Mitsuhide and his army of 13,000 samurai surrounded Honnōji temple. Inside, Nobunaga and his loyal servants were taken by surprise. Despite overwhelming odds, the defenders put up a fierce resistance. As the battle raged, Mitsuhide ordered the temple to be set ablaze. Amid the confusion and flames, Nobunaga ensured the safe escape of the women under his care. The he retreated to an inner chamber where he instructed his trusted aide, “Don’t let them take my head.” Nobunaga knelt, drew his dagger, and committed seppuku, the samurai’s honorable suicide. Fire consumed the temple. Nobunaga’s remains were never recovered.

Upon hearing of Mitsuhide’s betrayal and Nobunaga’s death, Toyotomi Hideyoshi swiftly negotiated peace with the Mōri and set out to avenge his lord. Meanwhile, Mitsuhide had looted Nobunaga’s luxurious Azuchi Castle on the east coast of Lake Biwa, hoping to maintain his soldiers’ loyalty with the spoils. He expected strong support from his daughter’s father-in-law, the influential Hosokawa Fujitaka, but Fujitaka severed ties with the traitor.

Hideyoshi’s 20,000-strong army caught up with Mitsuhide’s dwindling forces after only four days, catching them off guard. Many of Mitsuhide’s soldiers had deserted, leaving him with just 10,000 men. The battle was brief, and Mitsuhide’s forces were quickly routed. Mitsuhide himself met an inglorious end at the hands of a bandit leader who cut him down as he fled. His retainers recovered his head, which is interred in Kyoto on a quiet back street not far from Chion-in temple.

Repercussions

Tama’s father’s betrayal of Oda Nobunaga had profound consequences. Overnight, she became the daughter of a traitor, and with that label came the sentence of death. Mitsuhide’s entire family faced extermination. To save her, Tadaoki hid his pregnant wife deep in the mountains, in the hamlet of Midono at the foot of the sacred mountain, Kongodojiyama, in the center of the Tango Peninsula.

In this remote village, Tama lived anonymously, far enough from the capital that the locals were unaware of her father’s treachery. Protected and supported by her husband, who regularly sent provisions, she endured separation from him and their two young children. In Midono, under the influence of her lady’s maid Kiyohara Maria, Tama found solace in Christianity.

Despite the precariousness of her situation, Tama trusted in her husband’s care. Living in what locals now call the Female Castle, guarded by samurai from the Male Castle across the valley, she immersed herself in village life, teaching the local children to read and write and making charms to ward off epidemics.

While at the hamlet of Midono, Tama gave birth to her third child. Although her days were busy, she was plagued by loneliness, finding comfort in her dreams. Of this, she penned the following poem:

I thought it was real, yet

No scent of Tadaoki lingered on my sleeve.

Alas, it was just a dream.

As the months drifted by, Tama spent days contemplating the meaning of life and the inevitability of death. Aware that discovery would mean certain execution, she sought to prepare herself for the imminent end.

From Tama to Gracia

After two years in Midono, Tadaoki deemed it safe for Tama to be moved to his family’s Osaka residence where he could look after her. However, he was soon called to join his lord, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, in the conquest of Kyushu. Tama seized the opportunity of her husband’s absence to secretly visit a church with her maid, Maria. There, she engaged a Japanese priest in deep discussions on matters of faith. She desired to be baptized, but the priest was hesitant. Tama’s noble bearing and appearance had given him pause, and, not knowing her true identity, he postponed her baptism.

At home, Tadaoki’s vassals grew concerned about Tama’s late-night outings, so one evening, they went to the church to bring her home in a palanquin. The priest assigned a young man to follow her, and through him, he discovered she was the wife of Hosokawa Tadaoki. No longer allowed to visit the church, Tama remained unbaptized. She communicated with the priest through Maria and diligently studied the books he sent her. During this period, she arranged for her attendants to visit the church and be baptized.

Things changed drastically for the Catholics in 1587, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi issued the “Bateren Edict,” banning Jesuit missionaries from Japan. Disturbed by this news, and guided by her maid and confidante, Maria, Tama was baptized at her home. She took the Christian name, Gracia.

When Tadaoki returned from his campaign with Hideyoshi’s army in Kyushu, he was furious to learn of his wife’s baptism, especially in light of Hideyoshi’s edict against Christianity. He demanded she renounce her faith, but Gracia remained steadfast. 

Eventually, Tadaoki acquiesced, though he treated his wife with disdain, wounding her by threatening to take on concubines. Troubled by her husband’s behavior, Gracia confided in her priest, expressing a desire to leave him. The priest told her that divorce was not permitted in the Catholic Church and encouraged her to withstand the trials, exhorting her that “virtue is only refined in the fires of temptation.”

Meanwhile, tensions were mounting between the eastern and western factions of the country, as each strove for control. In 1598, Toyotomi Hideyoshi died, leaving his five-year-old son as heir. Hideyoshi had arranged for a council of five regents to rule until his son came of age, but they were soon splintered. Ishida Mitsunari, Hideyoshi’s senior advisor and administrator—utterly lacking in battlefield experience—rose to lead the Western faction loyal to the young heir. Tokugawa Ieyasu, an experienced general who had proven his worth in numerous battles and campaigns, commanded the Eastern faction.

In 1600, Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered his general Hosokawa Tadaoki to subdue a powerful northern warlord. Before departing, Tadaoki issued a solemn command to his retainers, “If, while I am away, my wife’s honor is threatened, kill her and then yourselves, as is our samurai custom.”

Taking advantage of Tadaoki’s absence, Tokugawa’s enemy, Ishida Mitsunari, ordered Gracia to be taken hostage in an attempt to coerce Tadaoki’s loyalty. But Gracia refused to be taken. The following day, Mitsunari’s forces surrounded her mansion. When Tadaoki’s vassals told Gracia they were surrounded, she prayed, then gathered the ladies of her house and declared, “Let me be the only one to die,” and she sent her tearful maids out. 

Knowing that suicide was forbidden by her Christian faith, Gracia engaged the help of Tadaoki’s chief retainer, who fulfilled her wish by beheading her. He then ignited an explosion that engulfed her house in flames before taking his own life through seppuku.

Hosokawa Gracia left the following death poem:

The beauty of flowers is to know when to fall.
Would that we could have such grace.

In these lines, Gracia touches on the Japanese concept of mono no aware, the deep, often melancholic appreciation of the fleeting beauty of the world, an awareness of the impermanence of things, and the bittersweet beauty found in that transience. 

Hours after Gracia’s tragic death, the Jesuit priest Gnecchi-Soldo Organtino visited the charred remains of the Hosokawa residence. There, he carefully collected Gracia’s bones and buried them in the Christian cemetery in Sakai. When Tadaoki learned of his wife’s passing, he was devastated. He sought out Father Organtino and requested a church funeral for Gracia, which he attended. He later had her remains reburied closer to his Osaka residence, at Sozenji temple.

Two months later, Ishida Mitsunari, the effective catalyst for Gracia’s death, was defeated at the Battle of Sekigahara by Tokugawa Ieyasu. After execution in Kyoto, his severed head was publicly displayed, marking an ignominious end to his life. Tokugawa and his descendants went on to rule over a peaceful Japan for 265 years until the Meiji Restoration of 1867.


For more on the difficult history of Christianity in Japan, see “26 Tragic Christian Martyrs—and Mending Relations with an Elephant.

The post Hosokawa Gracia—The Noblewoman Who Inspired Shogun’s ‘Maria’ first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

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