Travel tips from a long-term Japanese resident

I have traveled in Japan a fair bit, made plenty of mistakes, and learned a few things. In the hopes of sparing you the trouble, I have compiled these tips.

1. Plan thoroughly, then be flexible. 

Study a map of your planned destinations and choose a reasonable number of places to see. Give yourself plenty of time. You may get lost or see something interesting along the way that wasn’t on the map, as I have often experienced.

Case in point:

On the way to Yamadera last year, I was looking out the train window as we passed a tiny station and noticed a sign that showed a hiking trail. After visiting Yamadera, I went back to explore. It turned out to be a breathtakingly beautiful hike along the remarkably named, Kōyō River. 

Weather can also be a reason to switch your plans around. I use AccuWeather each evening to check the hourly forecasts. That way, I can plan to hike on sunny days and visit museums on rainy days.

2. Carry a handkerchief. 

Many restrooms do not provide paper towels, so people in Japan carry handkerchiefs to dry their hands.

3. Rent a bicycle.

Many cities have inexpensive bicycle rental schemes where you can pick up a bicycle at one location and drop it off at another.

4. Look into rail passes.

JR East, JR West, JR Kyushu, and Shikoku Railway offer rail passes for designated areas that are an extraordinarily good deal if you want to travel around the country by train. Once you purchase a rail pass online, you can also book tickets for reserved seats on the Shinkansen to pick up at the station. The passes can also be used for local trains and even many buses.

5. Be early.

Trains are on time. Be early.

Shinkansen doors open for less than 90 seconds. Be ready to get off before your stop.

6. Rural buses are few and far between.

Check the bus schedules and plan your visits around them. Some buses charge a set price, but most use a ticket system, as described below.

7. Keep tickets in a dedicated pocket.

Make a dedicated pocket for your tickets and the numbered ticket you must take when getting on a bus. That way you always know where to put them and where they are. No scrambling for lost tickets.

8. Bring your own shampoo and rinse.

If you have sensitive hair, bring your own shampoo and rinse. Japanese shampoo is made for thick, strong Japanese hair. It’s murder on my fine hair.

9. Open the window. 

Many business hotels have central air conditioning that you cannot control from your room. You may have a dial to choose low, medium, or high, but no temperature control. In that case, don’t bother trying to get help from the front desk, just open the window. 

10. Travel light.

You’ll be glad you did when carrying your suitcase up and down train station staircases. Elevators, though common in Japanese transit hubs, are more for the use of the elderly and mobility impaired than for typical commuters. Besides, small bags will be better for navigating your tiny hotel rooms.

11. Bring comfortable shoes.

Travel in Japan involves a lot of walking. Comfortable walking shoes are a must-have.

12. Bring your own supplements, medicines, and special sweeteners.

Do not expect to find supplements with Western level dosages in Japan. As well, replacement OTC or prescriptions drugs are virtually impossible to get.

If you need to bring medication, please check this link to the Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare’s website about procedures for bringing medicine into Japan.

The only sweetener commonly found in Japan is sugar, so if you are particular about your sweetener, bring your own.

13. Don’t panic if you lose something.

You may need a Japanese speaker to help you to call train stations, taxi or bus companies, hotels, or if you think you lost the item outside, the local police.

Among the many things people in my family have safely and successfully recovered are a backpack left on a bus, a wallet dropped on a sidewalk, and my camera which I left near a mountaintop viewpoint.

14. Carry cash.

Some places in the countryside do not take credit cards.

Last month, when checking out after spending a night at a Buddhist temple’s lodging, I was asked to pay in cash. This is not at all unusual.

15. Look up.

When visiting temples and shrines, look up. You might just be astounded at the amazing artwork on the underside of gates and on ceilings.

Bonus tip

Before you arrive in Japan, take a little time to learn these 10 Essential Japanese Phrases.

The post 15 Insider Travel Tips for a Great Visit to Japan first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

Minimum vocabulary needed while in Japan

If you are one of those intrepid souls that prefers to explore the world off the beaten track in Japan, you will likely encounter people who do not speak English. Learning these Japanese phrases could be tremendously helpful.

1. Kore wo kudasai (ko-leh oh kuh-dah-sah-ee)

“This one, please.”

At a restaurant: Point to the item you want on the menu or in the plastic food display, and say, “Kore wo kudasai.”

In a store: Point to the object you want to buy and say, “Kore wo kudasai.”

2. Onegaishimasu (oh-neh-guy-she-mäs)

Onegaishimasu is a very polite “please.”

As you can imagine, this word is endlessly useful.

In a restaurant and you want more water? Lift your glass and say, “Onegaishimasu.”

Many restaurants offer free refills of rice, if that’s what you want, lift your rice bowl and say, “Onegaishimasu.”

Finished your meal and ready for your check? Say “Onegaishimasu.”

If you want to be more specific in asking for your check, say, “Okaikei (ō-käē-këē), onegaishimasu.” “Check, please.”

3. … ii desu ka? (ee des kah)

Meaning, “Is it okay if I…?”

Want to sit down? Gesture to the chair and ask “ii desu ka?”

Basically, anything you want to do, if you can gesture and say “ii desu ka?” you will be understood.

This will also get you major points for politeness.

4. Dōzo (do-oh-zoh)

Dōzo means “Go ahead.”

In a crowded place and want to let someone go ahead of you? Say “dōzo” as you gesture with your arm.

When you ask if you can do something — “ii desu ka?” — you will likely be responded to with “Dōzo.”

5. Kekkō desu. (kehk-koh des)

“No, thank you.”

This is important, as rural Japanese can be very generous with food and drink. If you have reached your limit, say “Kekkō desu.”

Holding your hand over the top of your glass while saying “kekkō desu” also gives a clear signal you have had enough.

6. Hai / iie or dame (hah-ee / ee-yeh / dah-meh)

Hai means “Yes.”

Ie means “No.”

Dame is a stronger “no,” and if accompanied by crossed arms, it’s a very strong “no.”

7. Sumimasen (sue-mee-mah-sen)

“Excuse me.”

Used when you accidentally bump into someone, and as a preface before asking a question. Perhaps this is most commonly used when squeezing between people on a train or other crowded place.

Accompanied by a bow, “sumimasen” can be used for “I’m sorry.”

8. Toire wa doko desu ka? (toe-ee-leh wah doh-koh des kah)

“Where is the bathroom?”

This is a totally common question in Japan, so you need not hesitate to ask.

9. Wakarimasen. (wah-kah-lee-mah-sen)

“I don’t understand.”

Nihongo (nē-hön-gō) wakarimasen. “I don’t understand Japanese.”

10. Eigo dekimasuka? (eh-ee-goh deh-key-mäs-kah)

“Can you speak English?”

I’m sure you can imagine many scenarios where this question would come in handy.

Note about paying

When paying with your credit card, don’t be surprised when the cashier holds up a finger and asks you, “Ikkai barai, desu ka?” In Japan, we are given the option to pay once or to split any payments into revolving charges. Just say, “Hai” to let the cashier know that one payment is fine.

Depending on how far off the beaten track you get, you may encounter shops that do not take credit cards. It’s always wise to carry 10-20,000 yen (USD $120-240).

It’s generally not a problem to pay for a small purchase with a 10,000 yen bill. It’s pretty normal.

Greetings

You may be wondering how to say “Hello” in Japanese. For the answer to that question, please see How To Say Hello in Japanese.

Special thanks to Hiroko who helped me put this list together. She taught Japanese to foreigners for over 55 years, and her insight and suggestions were fabulous. She commented, “We would really appreciate you learning these phrases before you visit.”

The post 10 Essential Japanese Phrases to Learn Today first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

Your Guide for Choosing Sake

Contents:

• How sake is made
• Types of sake
• Importance of milling percentage
• Which sake should I buy?
• Storage and serving
• How to read a sake label
• Quantities

Several of my adult children who live in the US have become experts at making sushi, but they sometimes wonder what kind of sake to buy to drink with it. I understand. Just looking at an array of sake bottles with their mystifying Japanese labels can be daunting. And there are so many different types to choose from!

A Japanese expression, 酒屋万流, sakaya-banryū, meaning “there are 10,000 different ways to make sake,” aptly describes this vast variety. Though sounding like hyperbole, this seems to be true. Wherever in Japan you travel, you will always find unique and wonderful local sake which is not to be passed up.

Although the choices are innumerable, sake can be divided into a few main categories. Once you understand those, learning what you prefer and how to choose it becomes much easier.

First, let’s look at how sake is made. 

How sake is made

Rice

The main ingredient in sake is rice. Sake rice differs from table rice in two main ways.

1. Sake rice plants are taller, which makes it harder for them to survive the storms and typhoons that hit Japan during late summer and autumn. If the tall rice plants fall over into the muddy paddy, the rice can be ruined. Because of this fragility, sake rice costs about twice as much as koshihikari or other fancy Japanese table rice, like what you would find in a high-end sushi restaurant.
2. Sake rice grains are larger and they have a white center that holds a high concentration of starch. This starch is converted to sugar in the brewing process.

Milling

The outer layer of rice grains contains protein and fat, which is good for eating but not for brewing. Therefore, sake rice is first milled to remove the outer layer. The unused milled portion of the grains is often used for animal feed or for making senbe rice crackers.

Koji Mold

Once milled, the rice is steamed, cooled, and spread with koji mold spores, Aspergillus oryzae. This rice is left in a 40-42˚C room for 48 hours for the mold to grow. Workers turn and spread the rice every 2 hours around the clock. They crumble the balls of rice that form due to the koji growth to keep the mold growing evenly.

Brewing

Steamed rice, water, koji rice, and yeast are added to a vat and left to ferment. Over the next few days, more rice, water, and koji rice are added. The brewing process can take from days to weeks, depending on what the brewer is making.

Until the 20th century, most yeast used in brewing sake came from the cedar walled, brewery building itself, and/or former batches of sake. From the early 1900s, the Central Brewers Union started providing pure yeast strains to brewers across the country. Each strain was given a particular number. You might see the number of the yeast strain that was used to make the sake listed on the bottle’s label.

Sake is initially brewed to an alcohol percentage of 18% or higher. To make it suitable as a table beverage, water is added. This reduces the alcohol content to typically around 15%.

Genshu, 原酒, is sake to which no water has been added. This higher alcohol, yellowish sake has become popular in recent years.

Pasteurization

Most sake is pasteurized before storing and, again, before shipping. This is done to prevent spoilage, stop the fermentation process, and standardize the quality.

You can buy unpasteurized sake. If you do, you will need to keep it in the refrigerator and finish the bottle within a week. These kanji will be in a prominent spot on the label: 生酒 要冷蔵, namazake yōreizō. ‘”Unpasteurized sake — needs refrigeration.”

Sugidama

When a fresh batch of sake is made, brewers have traditionally hung a fresh, green ball of cedar called sugidama from the eaves of their shop. When the green has completely faded to brown, everyone will know that the sake has aged enough to be ready for drinking.

Although the length of brewing time now varies, you can still see sugidama hanging in front of sake brewers and sometimes even sake shops and bars.

Types of sake

There are two main categories of sake, junmai and honjozo. These differ in just one ingredient.

Junmai 純米

Junmai means “pure rice,” and as such, junmai sake is made from only rice, koji, yeast, and water.

Honjozo 本醸造

Honjozo is made from rice, koji, yeast, water, and distilled alcohol. 

Why is alcohol added to sake? In the past, it was added to prevent spoilage. Today, brewers add alcohol to enhance the flavor and aroma of their sake, which results in a marvelous variety of honjozo sake, well worth trying.

Importance of milling percentage

Junmai and Honjozo are divided into categories according to the percentage of rice that remains after it has been milled.

Years ago, junmai sake was made from rice that was 70% milled. This means that 30% of the rice grain was removed with 70% of its weight remaining. Today, there is no such regulation. This allows for a huge variety of flavors among the junmai sake family.

Generally speaking, the lower the milling percentage, the higher the quality of the sake.

Which sake should I buy?

You can’t go wrong with any sake labeled ginjo, 吟醸. This is high-quality, aromatic sake brewed with special care.

Sometimes sake makers produce a seasonal sake or some other type they don’t usually make. This will be called “special” sake. There are no rules that govern the use of that word. It is up to the brewer’s discretion.

If you come across a bottle with the “special” label, it’s a good bet that it will be a fantastic bottle of sake. Look for 特別, tokubetsu, which means “special.”

特別純米, tokubetsu-junmai or 特別本醸造, tokubetsu-honjōzo.

Storage and serving

Sake should be kept out of the sun and in a cool place. Store any open bottles in the refrigerator and finish them within a week.

Cold sake

The aromatic ginjo is best served cold. Sake served cold is called reishu, 冷酒. This can be served in wine or sake glasses.

Warm sake

Junmai and honjozo may benefit from heating to 30-40˚C. Warm sake is called kanzake, 燗酒. It is often warmed in a tokkuri bottle (徳利) and served in small cups.

How to read a sake label

This label just contains the basics. It is translated from right to left.

Other labels give more detailed information, such as the following:

日本酒度, nihonshudo, sake meter value.

This is represented by a + or – sign before a number.

– is sweet. + is dry. 0 to +5 is considered normal. +4 is average.

酸度, sando, acidity.

1.3 to 1.7 is typical.

使用酵母, shiyōkōbo, the type of yeast used.

This refers to the standardized yeast strains provided by the Central Brewers Union. #7 is the most commonly used strain. Highly aromatic #9 is customarily used for daiginjo.

The following label leaves out the strain of yeast used, but it still contains plenty of information.

Quantities

180 ml is called 一合, ichi gō, and is the base measurement for sake. If you order sake in a restaurant, this is what you generally will get.

Multiply ichi gō by 4, and you get the average sake bottle of 720 ml. This is called a shi-gō bin, literally “4 times ichi gō bottle.”

Multiply ichi gō by 10, and you get 1.8 liters, or 一升, isshō.

Multiply isshō by 10, and you get 180 liters, or 一石, ikkoku. These are the huge barrels of sake that you sometimes see offered at shrines. In the Edo Era (1603-1867) these straw-wrapped barrels were shipped by sea from Hyogo to Tokyo in a bustling and competitive sake trade.

In recent years, 300 ml bottles of sake have become widely available.

I hope by the next time my children make sushi, they will be able to choose a great bottle of sake to drink with their meal.

Sake is the perfect beverage to enjoy at a hanami — traditional cherry blossom viewing party — while you eat your picnic under the gently falling petals. To read more about the Japanese custom of hanami, click here.

For a clear, illustrated guide on the sake brewing process, visit this helpful website.

Sources:

http://www.japansake.or.jp/sake/english/howto/process.html, http://www.esake.com/Knowledge/Ingredients/Yeast/yeast.html, and the brilliant and knowledgeable Shima.

The post Sake Made Simple first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

The volcanic islands of Japan are a paradise of natural hot springs, called onsen. Almost all traditional inns have indoor baths, and some have beautiful outside hot spring baths where you can relax and enjoy the tranquility of nature.

Let these tips be your guide when you visit a Japanese onsen:

1. Make sure you have a bath towel, and a small towel to use for washing. These are either in your room, at the front desk of an onsen, or sometimes they are provided in the changing room. The receptionist or front desk clerk will let you know where to find them.
2. In the changing room, remove all your clothes and place them in a basket or locker. Or you can change into your yukata robe in your room and then head to the bath, like the woman in the illustration above.
3. Take only the small towel with you into the bath area.
4. Rinse a stool, and sit down in front of the shower. Use soap and the small towel to scrub yourself thoroughly. Shampoo and rinse your hair. Then rinse off. Rinse the towel well, too. Be careful not to spray or splash people near you. If you have long hair, tie it up so that it will not touch the bathwater when you get in the tub. If you don’t want to wash your hair, there are usually disposable shower caps available in the changing room.
5. Use the scooper that is near the bath to rinse yourself with the hot bath water, then get in. Do not let the small towel touch the bathwater. You can fold it and put it on your head, for easy storage and to help prevent dizziness. See the illustration below.
6. Do not add cold water to the bath.
7. When it’s time to get out, rinse the bathwater off, or not. Leaving the minerals from the water on your body is considered healthy.
8. Use the small towel to get rid of as much water from your body as you can before stepping into the changing room in order to keep the floor from getting wet.
9. Use the bath towel to dry off, put on your yukata (left side over right), and put your towels in the laundry basket, or else take them back to your room and hang them up. Be sure not to put damp towels on tatami mats.
10. If you have tattoos, you are generally not allowed to enter onsen baths in Japan because of their historical link with criminality. If they are small enough, though, you can cover them with sports taping or tattoo covers.

These may seem like a lot of rules, but following them will ensure a pleasant visit to an onsen, and make the proprietors happy for you to return.

The post 10 Tips for a Delightful Japanese Onsen Experience first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

Consideration For Others is the Key

Things Not to Do in Japan

1. Pour your own drink.

If you are eating alone, it’s fine. But if you are with other people, pouring your own drink can make you look like a drunkard.

Etiquette requires that we pour each other’s drinks.

2. Pass food from one to another using chopsticks or stick your chopsticks into rice.

At Japanese cremations, after the body is burned, the loved one’s bones are passed using chopsticks, one by one, from one family member to the other until they reach the urn, into which they are delicately placed.

You can see why passing food with chopsticks in the same manner would be frowned upon.

If you want to share food, use your chopsticks to move the food from one plate to the other first.

Sticking them upright into your rice also resembles a funeral ritual. Put your chopsticks on the chopstick rest when taking a break from eating.

3. Leave a tip.

Workers in Japan are generally paid a living wage, and tipping is not part of the culture. If you leave a tip, the waiter will probably run after you to return your “forgotten money.”

4. Pour soy sauce on your rice.

Years ago, a friend did just that. When the waitress saw it, she thought my friend had had an accident. “I’ll bring you another bowl of rice,” she said as she hurriedly whisked his soy sauce covered rice away.

Japanese rice is delicious as is, and it should be savored with the side dishes served. Rice and miso soup go together like bread and butter — but generally not mixed.

5. Wear shoes in the house.

In fact, be prepared to slip off your shoes when entering temples and shrines, traditional inns, and when being seated on tatami mats at restaurants.

Shoe etiquette is such a big topic, it deserves its own post. You can read it here.

6. Talk loudly in public.

In fact, don’t talk on your phone at all when riding on buses or trains. Texting is not a problem — everybody does it.

The Japanese are accustomed to speak almost in whispers, and despise us foreigners on account of our loud talking.

Jorge Alvarez, PORTUGUESE SEA CAPTAIN who visited Japan in 1546

7. Blow your nose in public.

It’s gross and it grates against the sensibilities of polite society. Find a private spot, bathroom stall, or someplace no one will see and hear you. It’s best to not sneeze loudly, too.

8. Step into the bath without first washing yourself to pristine cleanliness.

Bathwater is shared. It behooves us to keep it as clean as possible for those bathing after us. And don’t add cold water to it, no matter how hot you think it is. 

Click this link to read more about how to navigate Japanese onsens.

9. Point.

The way to point is to discreetly gesture with your hand. You will see Japanese people, when referring to themselves, point at their noses. That’s okay. But using your finger to point at other people or places is a no-no.

10. Cut in line.

I don’t know anywhere in the world where it is acceptable to cut in line, but Japanese take the art of queuing to new heights, lining up in an orderly fashion. This is definitely the way to do it. 

To Sum It Up

A good rule of thumb is to be considerate of others by leaving things cleaner than you found them — be it your seat on a train, the wash area in a public bath, or even a park bench.

And one more thing! There are few public trash cans, so always be prepared to carry your trash with you back to your hotel.

The post 10 Surprising—or Not—Things Not To Do in Japan first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.

Why are there so many slippers?

The Japanese have a highly refined aesthetic regarding shoes and cleanliness. Signs at the entrances to temples, shrines, traditional inns, and many restaurants indicate that shoes should be removed before entering. There is generally a step up in the genkan entrance area where this should be done. 

The concept is simple. 

The lower level is dirty, “outside.”

The upper step is clean, “inside.”

The dirty outside should never be trod upon with socks. The raised inside should never be touched by a shoe, not even to rest your boot on while tying your laces. There is a clear line of division—the step up. 

There are generally three areas that require shoe changes.

Entering an inn, traditional restaurant, or hot springs

In the genkan, step out of your shoes and directly onto the raised inside area. Then turn your shoes with the toes pointing outside, neatly side by side, or if there is a shoe shelf, place them tidily on the shelf. 

Usually, you will be given slippers to wear inside a building. 

Often there are outside slippers in the genkan to use for short trips outside when you don’t want to bother putting on your shoes.

Tatami rooms

Tatami mats are made of woven reeds and are delicate. One does not walk upon them with shoes, nor should one pull a suitcase along them. When entering a tatami room, slip out of your slippers and step onto the tatami, leaving your slippers with toes pointing outwards, neatly lined up in the hall or room entranceway.

Restrooms

A restroom floor is considered dirty, and thus there are designated toilet slippers. When going into the restroom, step out of your inside slippers and into the toilet slippers. You will see a clear line of division, either a step, a doorway, or a division marked on the floor.

When you’re done, leave the toilet slippers with toes pointing away from the entry area, neatly side by side and ready for the next person to use.

Don’t forget to put your inside slippers back on.

Shoe etiquette in Japan made simple

When there is a step up from an entranceway or hall, you probably need to change your footwear.

Finally

Leave things as you found them, or tidier. Being aware of the customs of the land will help you to have a pleasant visit and to avoid jarring the sensibilities of the Japanese. 

To read the dos and don’ts for visiting onsens, or hot springs, click this link.

The post Essential Shoe Etiquette in Japan—3 Important Times to Change Your Shoes first appeared on More Than Tokyo and is written by Diane Tincher.